Drinking And Dining At Smith

We recently decided to eat and drink at Smith, a relatively recent (but by no means new) addition to the 15th street strip on Capitol Hill. I'd been there once before for a beer, and the menu looked interesting. This time, we were going to sample the kitchen's wares.

Decor
I describe Smith's interior as Tweedy English Hunting Club crossed with hipster. The exterior presents some dark awnings that cover large open windows and doorways. The interior is heavy in wood, and the walls are filled with taxidermied deer and fowl as well as paintings of people in regal poses. There are booths, 4-top tables, and large 14-top tables that can seat large parties or seat smaller groups communally. While the decor may be a throwback to times of old, the music is definitely caught up with the times, thanks to the modern jukebox near the entrance.

Drink
Come for the beer, stay for the liquor. Smith boasts a variety of American, British, Irish, Mexican, and Belgian brews, both on tap and in bottles. And they have a full bar, which is more broad than deep (as in, they don't have 10 single malt Scotches, but they have more than one).

Food
Here's where it gets interesting. The cuisine is full of rich dishes that seem to span the Chunnel between London and Paris. Here's what we had:

• Fried duck leg. As good as it sounds. Super thick, seasoned fried batter covering a large thing and drumstick of delectable, dark duck meat. Very flavorful.
• Devils on horseback. Dates stuffed with goat cheese, wrapped in what I believe was pancetta. A wonderful combination of sweet, salty, and tangy.
• Beer potted cheese. A thick, creamy cheese spread accompanied with homemade cracker to spread it on.
• Summer vegetables. Green and white beans, tomatoes, and peppers sauteed in an anise butter sauce.
• For dessert, a very thick, rich chocolate pot du creme.

The good news is that we only sampled about a sixth of the menu. Some dishes are more adventurous (pig's feet, head cheese), while some look more familiar (pasta, pork sandwich). If what we had is any indication, Smith's kitchen is an excellent mix of wonderful flavors with a not-your-usual-pub-fare spin.

You can't ask for more than a nice atmosphere, a good beer, and great food. Add to that friendly, unpretentious, prompt service, and you've got a winner. We plan to return to Smith to enjoy more of their fare, donned in our (virtual) tweed jackets.

Strike Two For East Roy: Coco La Ti Da Shuttered

I think 809 E Roy Street is officially cursed, especially when a good restaurant moves into the place. First it was Fork. Now, Coco La Ti Da is closing its doors, just a few months after it opened (and when I wrote about the great time we had there).

One thing that doesn't make sense to me is McCown's quoted reason for parting ways:

McCown said balancing wholesale and retail operations proved to be too much. "I'm not the business side of it, I'm the creative side. I was getting farther and farther away from what I wanted to do."

I can understand being overwhelmed and having to do stuff you don't want to do. But, come on, Sue: you've been in the biz a while now. Wasn't the work required to keep wholesale and retail open foreseen? And, even if it wasn't, couldn't you have hired someone to help with the business end of things?

Every time we visited Coco, the place was packed. And the food & drink wasn't cheap, so I'm guessing revenue wasn't the reason Coco's shuttering.

I suppose it's more complicated than what Sue decided to share with the restaurant beat critic at the Seattle Times. Still, I'll lament the fact that there's now one less dessert place in the neighborhood.

Coco La Ti Da

We checked out Sue McCown's new restaurant-meets-dessert-bar, Coco La Ti Da, last Saturday. I was disappointed a few months ago when Fork unfortunately closed, so we were eager to see what the new place was like. Fortunately, we encountered a restaurant that teems with energy, friendly staff, cozy tables, and really, really good desserts.

Coco transformed the dark, brown interior of Fork into a brighter, more whimsical space. While the mural on the walls is preserved, new lighting has been added, and some of the furniture has a more retro-modern bent. The far room has become a sort of lounge, with three couches, small tables, and curtained walls and ceiling. In front of the kitchen is the dessert bar, displaying some of Coco's recent creations for to-go customers.

After a few minutes' wait, we were seated in the far room and were immediately greeted by a friendly waiter. I counted no less than 6 staff (not including Sue) present on Saturday night, each buzzing around, describing dishes to customers in a friendly manner or making order suggestions. The staff seemed quite knowledgeable about the dishes, and were eager to answer questions about the menu.

While the place does serve many savory dishes, we went straight for the sweets. They come in three varieties: plated versions (centerpiece desserts with sauces and powders that surround it on the plate), baby cakes on a stick (just what they sound like), and mini parfaits (tall shot glasses of layered goodness). We ordered a small French Press coffee, a plated Coco La Ti Da (their namesake), and a couple of the mini parfaits.

The pastries are not large, but they make up for their size in creativity, flavor, and richness. You're getting a fairly gourmet experience here: the desserts are creative, the ingredients are unique, the presentation is attended to, and the overall balance of flavors and textures is certainly considered. And, with a large enough party, you can sample many sweets and not fill up too terribly much.

Service was pretty spot-on; we didn't see any mistaken orders delivered around us, and there was only one mix-up at our table (they accidentally brought two Coco La Ti Da's - I now curse myself for rejecting them).

As for price and atmosphere, Coco is somewhere in between everyday place and special occasion. It's a great weekend-evening-after-the-movie-or-show kind of place, but you don't have to get all dressed up to go. We were quite comfy in our jeans, and many others were as well.

So, I'm sad Fork's gone, but I'm happy with what filled its place. Go visit Coco, talk to Sue, and enjoy her culinary creations.

The Red Line Is No More

While driving by the corner of Olive and Denny recently, my eye spotted something different inside The Red Line, those purveyors of tasty sandwiches and pizzas. Sure enough, the place was undergoing some interior decoration changes, and a sign was up on the window:

Coming soon: Amante Pizza & Pasta

Immediately, scary thoughts crossed my mind. No more Red Line? No more coffee, pizza, and espresso within walking distance? No more Oscar parties? No more friendly staff and customers that you recognize from visits past?

In doing a little research, the Seattle PI seems to have the scoop. Apparently owner Katy Carroll has decided to call it quits (her partner, Derrick Aiona, left some time ago). Amante Pizza & Pasta is a local chain, which, as the name implies, is mainly focused on the pizza/pasta trade.

Now, that's the bad part. There is a good part. According to the PI article:

• This particular Amante will continue to serve Red Line's sandwiches, coffee, and free wi-fi.
• The place will be open 24 hours.
• A bar will be added.

Well, I'm now down from "severely disappointed" to "hopeful". Katy had a great thing going with The Red Line, and I'm sad to see her go. But Amante seems to be catering to local preference in keeping some of Red Line's signature dishes and coffee-shop-feel in place.

I'm anxious to see who wins: local preference (assuming people still dig Red Line's sandwiches and coffee) versus chain uniformity (repeat after me in a monotone: "Everyone must serve the same. We must conform"). I'll report back once we visit the place, but if someone beats us to it, let me know how it was.

The 5 Spot Visits Alabama

Attention, Southern transplants and South-o-philes: venerable Chow Foods' The 5 Spot has flipped its seasonal menu as of last Wednesday, and they're now onto none other than "Sweet Home Alabama".

We've only been twice (only?), once for dinner and once for brunch, and can say that they've hit the mark with their Alabama-inspired menu. The cornbread, crawfish, grits, and stuffed chicken are all excellent. The best part: 5 Spot has mixed in some fall tastes with their down-home cooking, which means we'll get to enjoy this comfort-food menu as the days grow shorter and the temperatures cooler. Oh well, at least we'll have some culinary consolation.

Dixie's BBQ Is More Show Than Substance

The Seattlest blog recently wrote up a favorable post on Dixie's BBQ. I don't think seattle_leora is very up on BBQ, as the review is written in a very wide-eyed, 1st-visit, "WOW!" sort of way. Sure, everyone's entitled to their opinions, but I don't think Dixie's is "divine", "fabulous", or "succulent". I'll use an interview with Dixie and Gene Porter to comment on a few points.

• Popularity: I think Dixie's is popular because they have a gimmic: a very hot sauce called "The Man". That, plus the fact they're close to places of work where people can steal away and get some lunch. That, plus the fact they like to heckle their customers and threaten them with the sauce (which admittedly is fun to watch newbies experience). "We've never advertised" isn't entirely true, either: Dixie's has plenty of bumper stickers and other articles with their logo, and their catering truck is branded as well.
• Other BBQ restaurants: "They don't know how to cook," you say? "Too tough." Excuse me? Dixie, the last few times I've been in your restaurant, your BBQ was too tough. The ribs were slathered in an over-cooked sauce, the meat was too fatty, and the chicken definitely was not tender and falling off the bone. Have you checked out places like Steel Pig or Bourbon & BBQ Grill? They top your food's quality, plain and simple.
• The Man: Gene claims that "heat" is the main ingredient. A friend mentioned that it's somewhat similar to one of Dave's Insanity sauces. It's indeed quite hot. And, the fact that Gene puts it on your food as a test of masculinity and resistance to heat is a bit of a tired custom, if you ask me.

And here's where I get to my main point: when people talk about Dixie's BBQ, more often than not they talk about The Man sauce, or how you'll get heckled in line if you don't know what you want, or how you'll get asked to put a pin on the map to show where you're from. Not that the food is great. It's about the show, the experience, and not about the food.

I'm a big fan of BBQ, and I'm happy Dixie's is open and does good business. After all, one more BBQ place open in a region that has little history in the cuisine isn't a bad thing. Their food isn't bad, but it's not all that great, either, especially when compared to other local options. You can keep The Man, Gene, and I'll pass on your BBQ, too.

Cupcake Royale Has Raspberry Cupcakes

Yes, for a limited time, the best cupcakes in town now come in raspberry. From a recent newsletter:

We're proud to introduce our latest specialty flavor, Raspberry. With real raspberry jam mixed into the delicious batter, it's a flavorful thing to start with. Once we get done topping it with our cream cheese frosting and add a delectable raspberry gummy topper, it's everything a cupcake should be. It's only around for a limited time, so come on in now!

Run, don't walk - they said limited time!

Chez Gaudy Is A Great Place To Have A Birthday

So yes, last Saturday was indeed my birthday (and no, you don't have to shower me with belated wishes). To celebrate the occasion, we decided to organize a group to go out and celebrate.

My first idea was to go to a Greek place. "Hey, I'm Greek," I thought, "so I should celebrate at a Greek restaurant." So we called Vios, but unfortunately they were booked up for a private party. Then, I started to think more open-mindedly. "What's a good place that has good food and drinks, and can hold a 12-top (and is in the neighborhood)? After a few more brainstorms we landed on Chez Gaudy. And, as you're about to see, we're really glad that we did.

We've been to Chez a couple of times, and liked our experience there each time we went. Chez is a relatively new offshoot of Bleu Bistro up on Broadway, with a bit more Italian bent to the food, and more of an antique-wood look to their interior (not to mention more space for more seating). Chez has a lot of similar drinks as Bleu Bistro does, and an atmosphere of quirky friendliness pervades both establishments.

So we made reservations for Saturday night at 7:00pm. Our guest list was varying in size a bit, but the folks at Chez were very forgiving. "Your table can seat about twelve, and it's fine if you have fewer than that."

We start trickling in at 7 and sitting at a large table right near the entrance. Once most of us have arrived, we start ordering drinks (Black Velvet, Gin Fizz, a bottle of Moltepulciano wine, and so on). Our waitress, Erika, was very attentive and casual at the same time. No worries of people arriving in waves and the like. She made good drink recommendations for those who hadn't been to Chez before, and most everyone was pleased with the results.

Soon after, we order a cheese plate appetizer. This thing was amazing; it housed about 6 different types of cheeses, and had some cheddar I've ever eaten (it was flavored with horseradish). Plus, the bread included several rounds of strawberry butter.

Then, it was on to the entrees. The popular choices included veggie meatballs and a cheesy baked ravioli plate. As you can imagine with my circle of friends, the vegetable meatballs were the humor highlight of the evening (in other words, insert ball joke here). A flamed cheese dish was also ordered, which included a lighting right at the table (and, when you light cheese on fire in front of a Greek, you're going to get an "Opa!" in return).

As we were rounding up our meals, someone said "Hey, George is Greek - you should bring him some ouzo!". Erika checked and they didn't have ouzo, but they brought me a birthday drink on the house, comprised of coffee, Frangelico, and some cinnamon. It was quite tasty! After that, the entire table got a round of birthday shots. The exact contents were a mystery, courtesy of the bartender, but chocolate and coffee tastes were paramount. My glass was larger and contain whipped cream above the drink, given I was the birthday boy and all.

Finally, as if that wasn't enough, the folks at Chez brought out an entire trifle for dessert, also flamed at the table. This was also on the house! Everyone got a healthy helping of the creamy, cakey trifle to round out the meal.

Overall we stayed at Chez for about three to four hours and had a terrific time. Plates were broken (by Erika, not us!), things were set on fire, lots of drinks and food were had, and a great dessert topped off the evening. Thanks to Erika and the whole staff at Chez Gaudy on Saturday night for a memorable night. You all went above and beyond to ensure we had a great time, and did so with flair and ease.

New Restaurant "Fork" Closing Its Doors

We went to Fork recently to celebrate a birthday, and thought it was a great mix of gourmet food and unpretentious atmosphere. Today I read that, because of the chef/owner Scott Simpson's health problems, Fork is closing.

Very sad, but understandable. I hope Scott is able to return to his trade soon, in whatever capacity he can.

Post-Dinner Cupcake Royale

Nothing like a tasty box of cupcakes to bring home after a tasty dinner in Ballard.

As you can tell, they were busy tonight.


But, we scored a box nonetheless.


Yes, new camera phones are fun.

West Seattle Cupcake Royale Grand Opening

OK, I really don't want to make this the Cupcake Royale Appreciation Blog...but this is news, dangit: Apparently there's a grand opening on Thursday, May 18th complete with free 'cakes, coffee, and a DJ. From an email:

It's time for our grand opening in West Seattle!
We're almost ready to open the doors in West Seattle so we're going to throw a party to celebrate!

Naturally you're invited, so plan on hanging with us from 6-9pm on Thursday May
18th. It's our treat, so there will be FREE CUPCAKES, FREE COFFEE and DJ E.R.
spinning the tunes. It happens one night only, so come on by or hear about it
from your friends afterward.

We'll be opening for official business starting May 19th. We'll be open in West Seattle from 6 am until 10 pm everyday. The store is right in the heart of the junction at 4556 California Ave. We're very excited to be part of the West Seattle community, so stop by and say hi.

Save B&O Espresso!

Visiting our venerable espresso/brunch/lunch/dinner/pastry coffeeshop, B&O Espresso, today, we saw an ominous sign outside: land use action notice.

Our friends and I blinked and read the sign three times. "What? They're going to tear down B&O? To make way for condos?"

A quick recap for those who aren't in the area: B&O Espresso opened its doors in 1976, and was one of the first three espresso-based cafes in the city. Flash forward a few decades and they're still an institution on Capitol Hill, serving old and young, day and night. Their food and atmosphere are excellent, and their pastries are sublime (they're practically our Pacific Northwest version of Atlanta's Cafe Intermezzo). And, B&O holds a special part of thousands of people's memories (think first dates, get-togethers with friends and family). Heck, Pearl Jam came up with their band name while sipping some coffee at B&O.

So, what's the plan now? The P-I has an article that summarizes:

Now the venerable coffee shop is in limbo, with a proposal to tear down its one-story building for a mixed-use development with apartments or condos above retail space...

John Stoner, the owner of the building at the corner of East Olive Way and Belmont Avenue East, said he'd love to keep B&O Espresso as a tenant in the ground floor of the new building, which could be up to six stories...

B&O owner Majed Lukatah said he's not sure what will happen, but that his family intends to keep the business going...

"I have mixed feelings. I don't know whether I should just wait and come back to my own location or go somewhere else," he said.

B&O's building isn't the best on the 'Hill, but it has character. A brand-spankin' new space, after a yearlong construction, probably won't do it justice.

So, we can save B&O in a couple of ways:

• Save the building, and/or ensure the new building will have enough retail space for B&O. The first design meeting for the property is scheduled for Wednesday, April 19th, at 6:30PM at the Seattle Central Community College, (1701 Broadway, Room 3211). Go there and give your feedback. If you can't attend in person, you can view the land use notice, and offer written/emailed feedback.
• Help find a new home for B&O. Know of a good retail space, present or future? Call it in to B&O.

Here's to hoping that there will still be a B&O Espresso on Capitol Hill for years to come.

It's Official: Cupcake Royale Opening Third Store In West Seattle

Supreme cupcake bakery & coffee shop Cupcake Royale is opening a third store. This one will be in West Seattle. Joy!

Their web site is markedly brief about the announcement, other than saying the opening is "a month or two away". They do have a form you can fill out to receive information about their grand opening party.

Granted, we're usually not in West Seattle unless we're visiting Alki beach to walk or bike, or eating at a restaurant in the neighborhood. But hey, now we have one more excuse.

Very important note: if you've never been to Cupcake Royale and live in the Seattle area, drop everything and go. Now. Seriously. Oh, and let me know when you're going.

Gorditos Coming To Queen Anne

We were visiting the 5 spot today for a leisurely brunch when, just across the street, a bright new yellow sign was posted in a retail space: Gorditos! Greenwood purveyors of "healthy Mexican food" (they skip the lard and grill their meat instead of frying it), are bringing their burrito grandes and such right on the main Queen Anne Ave. strip.

Today, the windows were covered with plastic, but the space was lit from the inside, and two people were working near the doorways getting things fixed up. Expect a grand opening in the next month or so, just in time for spring.

Cafe Metropolitain

Seattle's got a new cafe/dinner/dessert/beer/wine spot on Capitol Hill: Cafe Metropolitain. Situated on the first floor of the Villa Marjorie apartment building, I was at first worried about its proximity to B&O Espresso. Two coffee and dessert places practically across the street from each other? Can we stand for such a thing? Fortunately, a visit to the Cafe this evening assuaged my fears: Metropolitain has a very different feel and menu, and fills a different niche on the Hill that should be compatible with other night nosh spots like B&O, Dilettante, and Cafe Septieme.

The first thing that strikes you when you enter the Cafe is its interior decor. It feels as if you're in a kitschy version of a French street, with a bar, cafe, wine shop, house, and square. Fake doors and windows line one wall, fake gas lamps line another, and fake trees and flowers make it feel like you're out of doors. Despite the falsehoods, the look works quite well, or at least it did in the low light at night.

Cafe Metropolitain's menu isn't extravagant. They have a handful of appetizers, sandwiches, entrees, and desserts. Four of their eight-page menu is devoted to alcohol, with a nice selection of beer and wine and some unexpected touches (Lindeman's Framboise lambic ale on tap!). The food and dessert selection spans enough tastes to please most. Sandwiches and appetizers for the day time, and dessert and alcohol for the evening. Add to that free Wi-Fi and the Cafe very much encourages you to chill out with a laptop or with your friends on one of their comfy red couches or next to their indoor fountain.

Cafe Metropolitain hasn't been open for very long, but they seem to be running smoothly and are drawing a fair crowd. I expect them to settle into a rhythm and then start experimenting with some additional food and beverage offerings.

I'm Addicted To Cupcake Royale

Seattle's into offering people things that are popular when they were kids. We have kickball, lots of parks, and skating rinks. We also have something that appeals to the foody in us all: add to the list the joy that is Cupcake Royale.

Cupcake Royale is a coffee shop and cupcake bakery in Ballard. The store is centrally located on Market street and offers an open and brightly lit space (not to mention a warm and cozy atmosphere for these cold winter months). And, quite simply, they offer some of the best cupcakes I've ever had.

Royale offers several varieties of cupcakes, including yellow cake, chocolate cake, red velvet cake, and frostings with flavors such as chocolate, vanilla, orange, lavender. And of course there's sprinkles. Lots of sprinkles.

Why am I so excited about friggin cupcakes? Because they're excellent, that's why. The cake is light and flavorful, but not too sweet. The frosting is creamy and rich, and pairs with the cake perfectly. Best of all, the size is just right for a small (but rich) dessert; no need to order a gigantic slice of German Chocolate Cake to get a sugar fix here.

We now go out of our way to drive to Ballard to grab a couple of cupcakes. I think I need a frequent buyer's club of sorts. A delivery service would be better. No, scratch that; that would be dangerous.

Chipotle Is Even Less Healthy Than McDonald's

"Real, high-quality food prepared using time-honored cooking methods". That's how the nutrition information sheet from burrito chain Chipotle begins. Surely this McDonald's Mexican fast-casual spinoff offers healthier food than its golden arched parent company, right? If your metric is calories and fat, the answer is no.

Chipotle's nutrition information sheet lists each ingredient they offer and the nutrition information for each. No individual item goes over 490 calories or 19g of fat. But, you don't order just one ingredient at Chipotle. You order them together into one of their many burrito or taco offerings.

Let's see: 1 13" flour tortilla, some rice, black beans, carnitas (pork), red tomatillo salsa, and some cheese and sour cream. Can't be all that bad, can it? Not unless you consider 1,195 calories and 42 grams of fat bad. Add some guacamole and switch the tomatillo salsa with corn salsa, and you're talking 1,437 calories and 57 grams of fat.

Compare that with the following Mickey D options, from their nutrition sheet:

• Big Mac: 560 calories, 30 grams of fat
• Grilled Chicken Club: 590 calories, 22 grams of fat
• Sausage Biscuit with Egg: 500 calories, 31 grams of fat
• Big N' Tasty with Cheese: 520 calories, 26 grams of fat
• Crispy Chicken Ranch BLT: 580 calories, 20 grams of fat

I was hard pressed to find a single item on the McDonald's menu that topped 1000 calories (yes, they do exist).

I'm not claiming that either McDonald's or Chipotle is falsely claiming they offer health food. And, I do recognize that the quality of the food does count for something (healthy fats, no preservatives, etc.).

That said, Chipotle is trying to brand itself as a fresh-Mex alternative to typical fast food, with a bent towards food quality. Contrast that with their food offerings and you quickly realize that fresh-Mex does not equal healthy (or even healthier) alternatives to fast food.

Southern Smorgasbord: The Dan'l Boone Inn

Visiting the South has its perks. Summer lasts longer, for one. The people use creative expressions when speaking to you, for another. And the food, oh, the food. There's nothing like ordering tea at a restaurant and getting it iced and sweet by default, or ordering grits and ham biscuits and not have the waiter stare at you with a confused look on his face.

Enter The Dan'l Boone Inn, located in Boone, North Carolina. We had the pleasure of eating at this fine establishment a couple of nights ago. Walking into the restaurant feels like you're entering someone's home. Plates line a shelf near the ceiling, and simple wooden tables and chairs are arranged neatly in the main dining room. The story is simple: they bring out plates of food from a fixed menu. They refill all plates, save the ham biscuits, as many times as you want. And you can pack stuff home if you can't eat it all.

The food was quintessential southern: the biscuits and corn had plenty of butter, the fried chicken was drenched in a super-crispy, savory breading, the beans were well done and tangy (not steamed and green, as "Yankee beans" are referred to on occasion), and the mashed potatoes were topped with a thick, tan gravy. The waitresses bring food out and take your plates away on rolling carts. And, pitchers of sweet, sweet tea are everpresent.

You leave quite full from an evening at the Inn. It's hard not to; the food is just that good. This "reverse buffet, limited menu" system needs to catch on in other parts of the country. What better way to sample the best of a local cuisine?

Waffle House, 50, Needs To Come To Seattle

I've spent admittedly too much time at Waffle House, which turns 50 this year, mostly during high school and college. In Dalton, where I grew up, it was the main meeting point with friends, where you planned what you would do next, or come back to after having done something.

Now, in Seattle, I miss the 24-hour appeal of WaHo. Even worse, other east-coast mainstays like Krispy Kreme have made it out to Seattle, with much fanfare. Why not Waffle House?

Checking their website, I see Colorado as the western-most border of WaHo-ness. I emailed them a note to request them to consider the Seattle area as a new store prospect. I haven't heard back from them.

If you're in the area, and you care to see them move out to the West, send them a note using this form, or call them at the phone number listed on that page.